Sharon Hage - Award-winning Chef of York Street in Dallas (TX)

Chef Hage has owned York Street, a Dallas restaurant that ranks high on lists of the best places to eat in Texas. She was recently named on the Best Chefs of the Decade by the Dallas Observer

Q: How did you become a chef and restaurant owner?

A: It was a natural progression. I have always loved cooking and being in the kitchen. I moved from Detroit to Dallas after culinary school and worked my way up in the restaurant world. My goal was always to have my own restaurant and, finally, with York Street, I had a chance to do my own thing.

Q: Do you agree with descriptions of the restaurant’s culinary style as “New American/Mediterranean “? 

A: That’s someone else’s interpretation, not mine.  If there’s an overriding influence, it would be Mediterranean flavors. But that’s not a priority. The menu changes every day and is really driven by the seasons. What’s evocative are the ingredients we have now and how it makes sense to use them. In mid-summer, Texas melons are at their peak and we can always count on Prosciutto di Parma to taste great, so a classic prosciutto and melon is always a natural. Our figs, a variety called Brown Turkey, also go really well with the ham.

Q:  How do you buy Prosciutto di Parma?

A:  York Street is really small—we seat about 40 people—so we buy only what we need for the day. Jimmy’s Foods is just a couple of blocks away and they slice it to order for us.

Q: What are some other ways you use Prosciutto di Parma?

A: Sometimes we slow roast trout or another whole fish, wrapped in thin slices of the ham, which turns crisp. We sell a lot of sweetbreads, too, dusted with semolina, sautéed and wrapped in thin prosciutto slices while still hot. Both preparations are served on a seasonal accompaniment—beans, mushrooms or artichokes, for example.

Q: I’m struck by the fact that you’re using an Italian ingredient—Prosciutto di Parma—without necessarily taking it in an Italian direction. You’re more interested in the flavor and texture than in putting this ham in a familiar context.

A: Exactly, I couldn’t have said it better myself.  Here’s another example. We crisp prosciutto in a slow oven to make cracklings, which we use as a garnish for salads and egg dishes. Used this way, prosciutto makes a nice change from bacon—it’s leaner and gives a good salty crunch without all that heavy smoke. In another dish, Prosciutto di Parma is folded over roasted local bell peppers and we serve that with a wedge of cornbread made with olive oil [see recipe].

Q:  During the winter months, what are your menu features?

A:  Parsnips and other root vegetables are starting to come on. Definitely game. And oysters start selling. Even when the temperature is 70 to 80 degrees here, braised dishes start to find their way onto the menu this time of year.

Prosciutto di Parma with Roast Peppers and Olive Oil Cornbread Chef Sharon Hage, York Street, Dallas

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